We all need good recipes for paint schemes, either you want to paint your models in the way someone else has, or you at laest want to preserve your own recipe for future use! I regularly look in my small notebook, it’s completely necessary. Because of that, the internet is full of recipes, either written down on blogs, or within a youtube video or somewhere else. And one day Andy Pearson decided that this had to change and created Paintpad.app. It is a really nifty tool, everyone can upload their paint recipes and mark which colors are used (all major brands are already in there), you can select which paints you own so you’ll immediately see which ones you need to get to recreate a certain recipe.
I anyway wanted to make a step-by-step guide for my Night Goblin paint scheme (I am vain like that), so using Paintpad was a natural fit. So either head over to Paintpad for the fully pictured step-by-step tutorial for Rudnik’z Boyz or follow the instructions right here. I still use lots of old Citadel colors, but I have matched them to their current line according to the official Citadel Conversion Chart. At the end you’ll find a table with all the steps and both the color I actually used as well as the respective equivalents in the current Citadel paint range.
Priming & Basecoat
I’ll start with a nice, black primer straight from the spray can. Simple as that.
Next up are the base colors. This is a rather fast step, where you cover all areas of the model in a dark tone of the color you eventually want to have. You don’t need to be too careful at this point, as later stages will more or less automatically fix mistakes you have made. Therefore I’ll pick a rather large brush and paint away. Citadel Base colors are usually a little thicker and contain a little more pigmet, so they cover black quite well.
First step is a drybrush with Boltgun Metal on all the metallics, i.e. the spear blade and the shield rim. I like to get this out of the way fast, as drybrushing tends to be more on the messy side of things. Next up is basecoating the flesh with Dark Angels Green. It’s a nice and dark color and a great basecolor for greenskins. You don’t need to leave black in the recesses, just a tiny bit at the boundry. The haft of the spear, the string around the blade, the rope around the waist and the teeth are basecoated in Scorched Brown. Not all of these areas will end up with the same color, but a dark brown is a versatile basecoat for all kinds of final colors. The base itself gets an undercoat of Graveyard Earth. This will not be covering the black well, but that is not important now as it only serves as an undercoat for the texture paint to be used later. The moon on the shield now gets a basecoat of Stegadon Scale Green and the base gets a thick coat of Agrellan Earth. Once this is dried, I come back with Chaos Black to fix any mistakes but also to quickly paint the robe black, even though it is already black from the priming. Spraypainted color has a different look and feel to it from painted colors, so especially for large pieces of cloth you should go over the spraypaint with regular layer paint. The string on the spear, the rope and the teeth get a layer with Dhaneb Stone. Finally, the flesh gets a layered coat of Snot Green (full disclosure, this is a later step in the paintpad tutorial but logically should be here, because it is before the wash. It has not been applied in the picture below). At this point, all the basecolors are in, and in case of an emergency, this model would be acceptable on the tabletop.
Now we come to shading, a very important step which instantly gives a great result. I still use a rather large brush for this. First up is the base and the shaft of the spear, washed with Agrax Earthshade. All those Dhaneb Stone areas get a wash with Gryphonne Sepia. I like this subtle hue of red/orange in the sepia wash, but these could probably also be washed with Agrax Earthshade to save some time. Metal bits get a nice coat of Badab Black and the bad moon gets a wash with Coelia Greenshade and the flesh gets a wash with Thraka Green. Moon and Flesh could also probably be washed with the same ink to save time. We have now arrived at the stage which is now referred to as “battle ready” by Games Workshop, meaning a basecoat and a wash on every surface. Games Workshop has now introduced their Contrast range of paints, supposedly giving you this result with a single coat of paint over a primer. I haven’t used them yet (and won’t change my recipe for Night Goblins now), but I will probably give it a go in the future. As you can see, this is definitely ready to play some games with. Boy, what I would give if all my models would be at this stage!
Primary color, main layer
Now it is time to switch to a slightly smaller brush, as we are going to apply the primary colors / first highlights to all areas (again, the flesh is slightly off since Snot Green basically already is the primary color). First up, the haft of the spear gets some highlights with Scorched Brown. The Agrax Earthshade wash was applied generously and has sufficiently darkened the wood, now we have to bring it back. The sepia washed parts get a layered highlight with Bleached Bone and the bad moon on the shield gets a layer of Sotek Green. The base gets drybrushed with Graveyard Earth for some highlights on the textured parts. With Adeptus Battlegrey, carefully give the robe an edge highlight, while the metal party get a light drybrush with Chainmail. This is not already looking pretty decent, it’s a perfectly acceptable tabletop standard.
To make the models really pop, we need a final step of highlighting the most important colors. On this model, these are the robe, the flesh and the blue highlight color, as well as the brown wood. Let’s start here, carefully apply edge highlighting on the wood with Snakebite Leather. I’m not nearly skilled enough to freehand wood grain, but on these models the wood is actually texturized, so I’m just picking that up with a light brown. The base gets a final drybrush with Dhaneb Stone to get it out of the way. Now for the fun part, the flesh gets a layered highlight with Goblin Green. I’m always amazed by the effect of this step, as I already like the darker flesh color before, but this Goblin Green really sells it in my opinion. Same goes for the bad moon, this gets highlighted with Ice Blue. On larger pieces I have tried some kind of gradient from the turqoise primary color, and I will certainly go all in on that with the Squigs, but these smaller details just get a coat of Ice Blue. The highest points on the robe get a final edge highlight with Codex Grey and the eyes get painted with a small dot of Blood Red. I don’t bother with painting the pupil on Night Goblins, I like their large, red eyes. The last step is to fix mistakes on the robe with Chaos Black and paint the rim black.
And here we are, one of Rudnik’z Boyz ready for a little Waaagh! Now I just have to repeat that 97 times.
|Step||Color used||Current Citadel paint range|
|1||Chaos Black Spray||–|
|3||Dark Angels Green||Caliban Green|
|4||Scorched Brown||Rhinox Hide|
|5||Graveyard Earth||Steel Legion Drab|
|6||Stegadon Scale Green||–|
|8||Chaos Black||Abaddon Black|
|9||Dhaneb Stone||Rakarth Flesh|
|10||Snot Green||Warpstone Glow|
|12||Gryphonne Sepia||Seraphim Sepia|
|13||Badab Black||Nuln Oil|
|15||Thraka Green||Biel-Tan Green|
|16||Scorched Brown||Rhinox Hide|
|17||Bleached Bone||Ushabti Bone|
|19||Graveyard Earth||Steel Legion Drab|
|20||Adeptus Battlegrey||Mechanicus Standard Grey|
|22||Snakebite Leather||Balor Brown|
|23||Dhaneb Stone||Rakarth Flesh|
|24||Goblin Green||Warboss Green|
|25||Ice Blue||Lothern Blue|
|27||Blood Red||Evil Sunz Scarlet|
|28||Chaos Black||Abaddon Black|